The forecast for Friday evening and Saturday for Šumava was not good. A big storm was coming. We were talking about our finish point and if we want to hike further, another day or two. Finally, we decided to end our hike this day. From Nové Údolí we planned to hike to Plešné jezero and reach the train station in Nová Pec.
We thought that it is 25 K from the temporary camping to Plešné jezero. But other hikers Told us it is maximum 15. So we took our time in the morning. Slowly packing. Looking back if we were faster we could follow the route we originally wanted. We know there is not enough water so we decided to fetch some fresh water back in Nové Údolí before starting our day by hiking uphill. The walk is good. We are fast. Actually pretty fast. I did not expect to have this amount of energy our fifth day. We even run some parts. We are in a very good mood. For this moment.
We are lost
On the way up to Třístoličník I found fresh water resource just next to the wooden cottage. The water was cold and so refreshing. Maybe too much because this is the point where we lost our red mark and we did not notice for some time. We missed crossroad. Somehow. After maybe half and our Gabina is telling me “I did not see the red mark.” I thought there is no need for red mark we still walk the same route. But then we reached the highest point of this route and started to descend.
That was wrong. By this time we should be on top of the hill and following contour line. “Hey, really, for a very long time there was no red mark!” Gabina is right. We stop for a moment and I studied the map. With confidence that I am good at reading maps, I point to place where we should be. “We are here, that means lost.” We have few possibilities. Go back the same route, that means 7 K plus. Or try to find a straight route to Plešné jezero and that would save us time. But we were not where I pointed. I should have been more careful.
A new direction of our way
We descended the hill and find ourselves on a blue mark. We opened a map and tried to make plan B. It was pretty obvious then we can’t make it to Nová Pec. It was about 17 K and we had less than 2 hours. We could go back to Nové Údolí and catch the train from there. But going back to our starting point was not a good solution for us. That would be a total loss. So we decided to follow blue mark, Schwarzenberg’s channel to Jelení vrchy, where we can catch a bus which will take us to the train station. That is about 10 K.
It was such a beautiful day. I was in this part of Šumava for the first time. We both know we will come back for this last part. This was not our final trip here. In a small village Jelení vrchy I stopped my watch and we had our final beer. We tried to find a shelter or small cottage on a map playing with a version that we can take a beer with us find this dry place and enjoy one more night outdoor. But we were not lucky. So we took a bus and then train straight to Prague.
Distance: 22 K
Elevation: 463 m
Tenhle kout Šumavy nám unikl. Přechod Šumavy jsme zakončili trochu jinak, než jsme si plánovaly. Ale obě tak nějak víme, že jendou si sem pro ten zbytek dojedeme.
Trasa pátého dne: Nouzové nocoviště, Nové Údolí (dále po červené), Rosenauerův pomník, rozcestí Trojmezné a Třístoličníku, les les a les, Stocký potok (dále po modré), Ministerka, Hučina Potok, Jelení Vrchy
Vzdálenost: 22 km
Převýšení: 463 m
How was our hike? Wonderful!
When I told my friend I am walking Šumava to try my gear for Pyrenees they told me these mountains are small and I should rather go to Krkonoše or Tatry. But I do not agree. Even Šumava gave us a huge lesson. Randomly:
- we got lost 3 times
- we reach out camping place totally in the dark once
- we got totally wet up and down once
- my toe was damaged
- mouses have eaten Gabina’s shoes
- my head torch broke
- we were out of water few times
Now we know how big backpack we need for this kind of trip. That a good sleeping gear is essential. I figured out that the solar system I had is huge and heavy and is not charging that well. I know that a small camping gas is enough for two people for one week. Surprisingly we ate less then I expected. 3,5 litres of water is ok. If hiking Šumava light running shoes are enough.
Both of us had fun. We reached Prague smelly and sweaty. Our decision to finish on Friday turns out to be very good. In a few hours, the storm hit the area where we hiked and planned to sleep. All paths where closed, a lot of trees fell down. There was no electricity and no bus or train connection. If I can describe this time in Šumava with one word, I would say: wonderful.
You can see all our hiking days on Strava:
If you will plan a hike across Šumava, check if all the routes are open. Some of them are open only in main season. Near almost every temporary camping there is a restaurant. If you want to hike ultralight you do not have to think about food that much. Plus if you have a filter you don’t have to think about water that much. The system of temporary camping sites is quite good. I would be happy to see a bin there. In most of the places, it would not be a problem to collect them.
The distance between camping places is not bigger than 15 K so you can go slowly or do just a part of this trip and enjoy it. Unfortunately, most of the main route is on asphalt. So we ready it will hurt more.
More information: Daší informace můžete načerpat třeba tady: